Saturday, July 3, 2010

#34 Zeballos

Oh these beautiful anchorages are awesome! Each one is magnificent. But Dick and Alex are now on a mission: locate a dining establishment on the West Coast, and believe me, we're not particular. It's Saturday and we've been home cooking for 8 days. Imagine two guys who don't cook having to prepare 24 consecutive meals! We ran through our limited menu memories long ago. Where's Pat, Harriet or Willie when you need them?

So we choose today's destination not based on scenery, setting or serenity. Today we dine out, or at least visit a place that's likely to have dining options. Zeballos is the place, we hope.

Zeballos is 20 miles inland from the West Coast at the end of Zeballos Inlet. It's been around for 100 years or so, with lumber mill, logging, ice plant, fish processing and gold mining contributing to its existence. Later we find out the mill has closed but the gold mining operations are about to commence again as gold has reached $1200 per ounce. A new third hotel is under construction.

An early morning departure is prudent as we do need to spend about an hour in the ocean. But once outside, calm waters prevail and we can hardly tell the difference as we turn into the protected inner waters of Esperanza Inlet. Just two sports-fisher runabouts and a large seiner fish boat is the extent of today's traffic. We are in Zeballos at 11AM and tied up to the public docks, with plenty of space to spare.

Zeballos view from the water.

Main Street Zeballos: Where is the restaurant?

Dick promptly begins to probe the town for eateries. He asks the fuel dock person:"Are there restaurants?" -- two. "Which one do you dine at?" -- I eat at home! "Where are they located?" -- One is over there and one is over there. Now that's definitive! Together we walk down the center of the town's quiet main street, eyes and noses open. The town is deserted, just a few folks about. It's that same scene from ..... "Gunfight at the OK Corral".

At last "Rosie's Cafe". Open at 11. Just then, Rosie walks up and unlocks the door and we enter through the kitchen. "What will it be? Breakfast or lunch?" We almost order both, but settle for bacon and eggs. The breakfast is GOOD. $15 Canadian with tip for both of us. "What's for dinner?" we ask. "Pork roast!" We'll be back Rosie.

We visit the general store near the docks. The clerk has just moved from Prince Rupert. He remembers the Wild Blue from our Alaska Cruise last year. How weird! Instead of one, we buy two bottles of wine for dinner: sorry no Pinot, just Shiraz.

We then take a hike to the end of town, over a single-lane wooden bridge, and through a nature trail to the Zeballos River. It's a pretty place. Zeballos is growing on us: good food; friendly people; free dockage (so far at least as we can't find anyone to take our money) with power; crystal clear and tasty water which we find leaves no water spots; and friendly dogs, of which all are known to us since walking the town.

Zeballos nature trail. We said hello to the bears, who thankfully didn't answer.

The Zeballos River runs through it.

It's dinner time and we are looking forward to Rosie's pork roast. We bring the wine and corkscrew as Rosie's is not licensed. At 6PM the roast is almost gone but she has saved some for us. Rosie sets out the crystal glasses (brown coffee mugs) and joins us for a taste. The dinner is awesome: home made corn chowder, tender roast, seasoned bread stuffing, mixed vegetables, home made french fries and yummy gravy. Large portions! O M G. Super tasty and more than we could finish. $10 Canadian each.

We just may stay in Zeballos for the 4th of July -- Have a tasty and happy 4th.

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